Alpine Wines

Les Hauts de Pierre is the pinnacle of Blaise’s production. It comes from a single parcel of old vine Chasselas, and is powerful, textured, and intense, almost reminiscent of top Burgundy. This 2019 is a little closed, but with texture and purity on the palate, it points to a long life ahead. The salinity and leesy complexity on the palate lasts an age, with notes of citrus and more savoury elements unfurling over time: this is a remarkable Swiss white.

As the name suggests, this is made up of a patchwork of terroirs across the domaine, and produces a benchmark Jura Chardonnay. It is the perfect introduction to the Chardonnay range here, which is a tour de force of single site expression. The average age of vines is around 50 years, which is fairly senior for an ‘entry’ wine. The long fermentation in barrel (10% new) has produced complex layers of flavours, with curry, fenugreek and saline freshness, with a silky texture. There is that classica nutty Jura reduction on the finish. Some attractive fruitiness on the palate means it will drink well from early on.

This cuvée is an homage to Stéphane's father, André (dédé/DD) who began making this wine. It is a blend of Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard which is made in a "glouglou" style without sulphur for easy drinking. Its long, gentle fermentation and ageing in hundred-year-old foudres preserve the natural freshness of the varieties. It is bottled with a little more CO2 than most wines to compensate for the lack of added sulphur dioxide. This provides a prickle of freshness, and a quick carafing might be advised. This quintessentially Jurassic red is wonderful for early, easy drinking.

Indigène is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot noir and 5% each of Poulsard and Trousseau. Its name refers to the use of only natural ingredients in its winemaking: primary fermentation with indigenous yeasts, and secondary fermentation initiated by the addition of Stéphane's own liqueur de tirage, made from the domaine’s own, fermenting straw wine. It is creamy and gently sparkling, with a vinous character running through the palate. It is one of the finest examples of its type

These vines are planted on degraded Lias clay, which contributes to the soaring tension on the mid-palate of this wine. It has a smoky base, with citrus top notes. Tingling minerality swirls throughout. There is a magnificent density to this wine. Tuck it away for a few years to enjoy it in its full glory.

65% Gamay de Chautagne, 25% Mondeuse, 10% Persan. A beautiful pale ruby from a super-star Savoie domaine. It is lightly scented with wild cherries, Alpine strawberries, and a light graphite smokiness. Its sappy adicity and fine sweet tannins combine in this distinctive and delicious mountain red.

40% Jacquère, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Mondeuse Blanche. Apple-scented, textured, and refreshing. The slight yeasty character adds depth and weight, and its soaring acidity gives it a tangy grip, with its briny length making it so moreish. Domaine des Ardoisières on top form.

65% Gamay de Chautagne, 25% Mondeuse, 10% Persan. 2018’s warm season has lent this a depth of dark cherry and wild berry core, married with the cool smoky freshness of the high-altitude region. Supple, salty tannins, and a long balanced finish. Domaine des Ardoisières on top form.

The Petite Arvine is intense and savoury. There’s peaches here, and plenty of savoury spice, with notes of fresh ginger and a long and textured finish. Very saline on the finish: makes you reach for another glass.

The Cornalin is floral, delicate, and a brilliant example of a mountain red. Notes of wild herbs and very pure morello cherry fruit make this a brilliant match for charcuterie, and other mountain fare.

Of Robert’s international varieties, his Syrah is our pick: it’s a peppery, dark fruited wine, with silky tannins and an elegance that wouldn’t look totally out of place a few hundred kilometres down the Rhône in Côte-Rôtie.