Alpine Wines

This comes from a few different vineyards, at 400 metres above sea level, with vineyards cooled by the Ora del Garda wind that blows in the afternoon here. A beautiful salmon tinge to this, and the nose points to real complexity. Lovely vibrancy, notes of peach skin and orange blossom, and also a hint of phenolic bitterness keeping everything balanced. Really lovely.

Nosiola is the only autochthonous (indigenous) white variety in Trentino, with its origins dating back at least to the 16th century. There are debates as to the origins of its name: some claim it’s due to the hazelnut (“nocciola”) colour that the grapes and stems take on at full ripeness; others point to the slight aroma of fresh hazelnuts when the grape is picked. An almost Riesling note on the nose, with hints of lime blossom and loads of intense fruit. There’s a savouriness here, and also a weight on the palate. Very finely judged, with just a hint of more exotic fruit coming through on the back palate, and a lovely, mouthwatering, phenolic finish.

From the historic Olivar vineyard comes a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Bianco: a serious and complex white that blossoms with a few years in the bottle. The vineyard, and the wine, take their name from a centuries-old olive tree that overlooks the vines, and here the altitude of 450m as well as protection from northerly winds makes a very special microclimate. There’s lots of palate weight here, with hints of oak spice, ripe peaches, and a lovely thread of acidity. More weighty than the other wines, there’s a long and savoury finish.

Les Hauts de Pierre is the pinnacle of Blaise’s production. It comes from a single parcel of old vine Chasselas, and is powerful, textured, and intense, almost reminiscent of top Burgundy. This 2019 is a little closed, but with texture and purity on the palate, it points to a long life ahead. The salinity and leesy complexity on the palate lasts an age, with notes of citrus and more savoury elements unfurling over time: this is a remarkable Swiss white.

Les Murets comes from the commune of Villette. It’s a delicate, elegant expression of Chasselas: the perfect introduction to the grape. From sandy, chalky soils, it’s a mineral, floral wine, ideal with lighter dishes. Notes of rose petal and watermelon, and a lovely savoury lift on the finish. Very good value.

These vines are planted on degraded Lias clay, which contributes to the soaring tension on the mid-palate of this wine. It has a smoky base, with citrus top notes. Tingling minerality swirls throughout. There is a magnificent density to this wine. Tuck it away for a few years to enjoy it in its full glory.

As the name suggests, this is made up of a patchwork of terroirs across the domaine, and produces a benchmark Jura Chardonnay. It is the perfect introduction to the Chardonnay range here, which is a tour de force of single site expression. The average age of vines is around 50 years, which is fairly senior for an ‘entry’ wine. The long fermentation in barrel (10% new) has produced complex layers of flavours, with curry, fenugreek and saline freshness, with a silky texture. There is that classica nutty Jura reduction on the finish. Some attractive fruitiness on the palate means it will drink well from early on.

This is the ‘insider’s tip’ in the Tissot range. It comes from a 0.6 hectare parcel of very old Chardonnay vines planted within the Château-Chalon appellation (usually planted with Savagnin for the world class vins jaunes produced there). "Sursis" means "reprieve" in French - Stéphane had planned to grub the vines up when he bought the plot to plant Savagnin for Vin jaune, but the limestone soils here produce such a fantastic, mineral wine that he couldn't bring himself to do it. It has a purity and freshness that sets it apart. Ageing on lees gives it a subtle richness that counterbalances its austere tension. Rare and wonderful.

Indigène is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot noir and 5% each of Poulsard and Trousseau. Its name refers to the use of only natural ingredients in its winemaking: primary fermentation with indigenous yeasts, and secondary fermentation initiated by the addition of Stéphane's own liqueur de tirage, made from the domaine’s own, fermenting straw wine. It is creamy and gently sparkling, with a vinous character running through the palate. It is one of the finest examples of its type

Unlike the Savagnin barrels that go into the production of vin jaune and Château-Chalon, these are topped up regularly, protecting the wine from developing the characteristic oxidative notes of those wines. Instead this is fresh, bright, and vibrant with a pithy, waxy citrus fruit energy. An increasingly popular style, nevertheless still produced in tiny quantities.

This is a south-facing site with Trias clay soil. It often displays the most warmth of Stéphane's single-vineyard Chardonnays, and in 2018 it has the power and silky persistence of the vintage on full display. Smoky, spicy, nutty, energetic, and perfectly weighted.

This limestone site sits on the lower part of the slope beneath the Tour de Curon. This is the most Burgundian of the single vineyard sites, with a serious savoury and citrus expression, with a plump cushion of stone fruit at its core.

This is Stéphane's "Grand Cru", and comes from a superb walled vineyard that encloses the eponymous tower, overlooking the town of Arbois. Its old vines and limestone soils produce outstanding wines every year, though in tiny quantities. There is huge intensity in the wine, that benefits from a little air when poured. As you swirl it, layers of nutmeg, Amalfi lemon, crystalised ginger, and jasmine scent emerge. It has so much drive and persistence on the palate, and it is not unreasonable to compare it with Grand Cru white Burgundy. World class.

This vin jaune always has a deeper fruit expression than the others. It is quivering with energy, and salty intensity on the length. Wonderful.

Stéphane Tissot is at his best when making vins jaunes. This single vineyard example comes from a site with a mixture of Lias and Trias soils. Its smoky aroma recals whilsky, and its nutty, zappy, dry palate is just crying out to accompany some 24 month aged Comté.

Château-Chalons are some of the most age-worthy and unique wines in the world. The Lias clay and limestone soils of the appellation, that clings to the steep slopes that rise up to the eponymous fortified hilltop village produce a complexity and intensity of fruit in the Savagnin grown here. The biological ageing - much like that found in Sherry - where the barrels are left to slowly evaporate over time allowing a layer of flor (wild yeast) to form on top of the wine, makes for some of the most complex flavour profiles in the wine world. Incredibly intense, but also so pure and light on its feet. One of the finest examples of its type.

Château-Chalons are some of the most age-worthy and unique wines in the world. The Lias clay and limestone soils of the appellation, that clings to the steep slopes that rise up to the eponymous fortified hilltop village produce a complexity and intensity of fruit in the Savagnin grown here. The biological ageing - much like that found in Sherry - where the barrels are left to slowly evaporate over time allowing a layer of flor (wild yeast) to form on top of the wine, makes for some of the most complex flavour profiles in the wine world. Incredibly intense, but also so pure and light on its feet. One of the finest examples of its type.

This special cuvée of Vin Jaune has been aged for two years more than the required six year minimum for this wine style. The extra ageing adds intensity of expression and concentration of nutty, almond flavour. It is made from a 50/50 blend of vines in En Spois (grown on Trias clay soils) and a parcel just next to the Tour de Curon (grown on Lias clay soil). Just 6 barrels were made, and aged uniquely in a warm cellar. By the time of bottling, 4 of the barrels had no flor veil so the wines aged along the lines of an Amontillado, giving a more oxidative and powerful expression of Vin Jaune.

40% Jacquère, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Mondeuse Blanche. Apple-scented, textured, and refreshing. The slight yeasty character adds depth and weight, and its soaring acidity gives it a tangy grip, with its briny length making it so moreish. Domaine des Ardoisières on top form.

65% Gamay de Chautagne, 25% Mondeuse, 10% Persan. 2018’s warm season has lent this a depth of dark cherry and wild berry core, married with the cool smoky freshness of the high-altitude region. Supple, salty tannins, and a long balanced finish. Domaine des Ardoisières on top form.

Schiste, from a blend of Jacquère, Roussanne, Mondeuse Blanche, and Pinot Gris, is a wine that’s astonishingly tense and vibrant, that comes from the vineyards that overlook Cevins. It benefits from decanting, and could do with a year or two in bottle.