The 6th iteration of Bollinger’s PN series – a spotlight on Pinot Noir – is predominantly 2020 base with reserve wines coming from 2019 and 2008/2012 (aged in magnum). The finest iteration of the PN series to date, this opens with aromas of white peach, plum, and mirabelle. Behind this comes red currant fruit and a hint of fresh mango. There is a real sense of precision, depth of flavour and saline energy to this wine. An irresistible elegance bubbles from the glass with a lacy feel to the mousse on the palate. Long, mineral and saline on the finish. Excellent.

Old vines of up to 80 years old, grown predominantly on rare blue schist soils. This has been aged for 19 months in a mix of cement eggs, foudres, demi-muids and small barrels. The nose is fresh and pure with pretty floral and apple notes. The palate is rich and vibrant with an enticing intricate, lacy texture and a lively acidity. There’s ripeness to the citrussy, apple fruit with layers of white pepper and mineral notes, culminating in a long, saline finish.

The hillside vineyard of Le Poste is composed of Tortonian limestone marl close to the Saint Cosme chapel that adorns the label. This is always the most floral single vineyard wine of the range, full of beauty and refinement. There are notes of fennel and thyme with a very sleek, detailed feel on the palate. This almost edges towards Pinot in feel on the palate with beautiful accents of violet and raspberry on the finish.

This single vineyard old vine Grenache is grown on Miocene limestone. There is structure and power yet depth and charm - the oldest vines date back to 1902. This is saline, delineated, aristocratic with notes of pencil lead, blueberry and ash. There is an effortless intensity here with everything that seems so well balanced. Extremely fine.

The terroir from the Le Claux vineyard is Miocene limestone marl on the Font des Papes alluvial fan. It is a bold and quite muscular wine that shows more dark fruit character, brooding violet notes, with a real drive of focus through the palate. This is spicy with notes of tobacco, wild herbs and blackberry that mesh together so finely on the finish.

The benchmark Gigondas from Saint Cosme is a wonderfully spicy, seamless wine with notes of wild herbs and liquorice that speaks of the 100% whole bunch fermentation. There is around 15% new oak cask that was used for the 12 months of ageing which adds a subtle savoury spice note of sandalwood. This is fresh, showing beautiful intensity with notes of cherry, hedgerow fruit, violets and black tea. Lots of detail on the finish, this is a marvellous wine from Louis Barruol.

Vibrant and a real classic this Godello offers aromas of orange peel, acacia and ripe yellow peach. This is fresh, saline with an immediate appeal. There is some peach skin texture to the wine with a hint of pink grapefruit and an elegantly refreshing finish.

A classic, detailed and aromatic vintage Port from Quinta do Noval, this opens with nose of christmas cake, blueberry and dark bramble fruit. This is very fine on the palate, showing a lot of freshness and energy with a real crescendo through the palate. There are subtle notes of dried mint, crushed violets and a little bitter liquorice note. This is a bold and classic vintage Port that will age gracefully in the decades to come.

A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc the 2016 La Gaffelière is a silky, seamless St-Emilion bursting with ripe dark cherry fruit. Subtle spiced notes of sandalwood and incense mingle with the fruit with a little dried herb note speaking of the Cabernet Franc element. This is beautifully intense, well-structured with a real sense of confidence.

A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc the 2016 La Gaffelière is a silky, seamless St-Emilion bursting with ripe dark cherry fruit. Subtle spiced notes of sandalwood and incense mingle with the fruit with a little dried herb note speaking of the Cabernet Franc element. This is beautifully intense, well-structured with a real sense of confidence.