2015 White Burgundy: the vintage you shouldn’t skip

Widely regarded as one of the finest producers of this tiny Grand Cru, with just a third of hectare they don’t make very much. In 2015 the potential is plain to see: at the moment it’s a little tight but with a slightly opulent character. Notes of apricots, white blossom, orange flower water and fresh spices abound, making this a complex, long, and well-defined wine.

From the Meursault side of the village, touching Meursault Charmes, this has generosity of fruit but without losing that classic Puligny tension. Long and pure, it’s a premier cru that will be approachable slightly earlier than the others here.

Situated just between the two vineyard above, and combining the open generosity of Referts and the taut, mineral nature of Champ Canet, this is a pure, balanced, impressive Puligny. The vines here are 65 years old, lending intensity to the wine, but it will need a couple of years to all come together.

An excellent wine year in, year out here, the Champ Canet vineyard takes its name from an historic owner, M.Canet, and is situated quite high up the slope. This is very Chardonnay in character, with orchard fruits and citrus alongside a slight mealy character, and excellent balance and drive.

Le Cailleret is the vineyard that abuts Montrachet on the Puligny side, and de Montille’s is one of the greatest from this plot. It’s restrained and elegant, with a savoury element and aromas of little white flowers. The palate is lean and taut, with wonderful density and intensity. This is hugely impressive.

While this is a step up in ripeness from the other whites in the range here, it maintains Etienne’s trademark precision and purity. It’s bright, with a mineral texture and a touch of salinity on the finish.

A section of the Vergers vineyard situated well up the Chassagne slopes, this shows its premier cru breeding clearly. It’s generous with a creamy texture and more buttery flavours than some of the other wines here, but with bright acidity on the long finish.