This is the vineyard up the Spitzergraben, the coolest site, on the corner of the valley, where the cool air comes down from the plateau. Very precise and quite savoury on the nose. There’s notes of mint and plenty of stone fruit, and then an orange blossom character, too. So much vibrancy here: this has so much acidity, but nothing sticks out. This has everything dialled up.
Hirtzberger's Spitzer 2021 Ried Setzberg Riesling Smaragd opens with a dense and very spicy nose of ripe, concentrated fruit, plus phenolic notes that I don't recall being so prominent in previous vintages. Rich and creamy on the palate, while elegant and with persistent grip, this is a savory but currently heavy and overly opulent Riesling whose texture and richness almost remind me more of Veltliner. A baroque but age-worthy Riesling from Spitz. Tasted at Schloss Dürnstein, Wachau, in September 2022.
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Young 2025 - 2040
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