2015 Garrus Rosé, Château d'Esclans, Côtes de Provence

2015 Château d’Esclans, Garrus, Côtes de Provence (20/20) is a wine which I feared I would never taste. I have tracked this wine over the years through the 18s, 18.5s and into the 19s and last year I sensed we were on the brink of perfection, but I couldn’t push myself into a perfect score. When I tasted the 2015 wines out of barrel last year I was convinced that they were even finer than the ‘14s and this meant that a perfect Garrus was possible. Now that the wine is bottled, and has had a chance to settle, I am certain that we have found a superstar release. As always, Garrus has more depth and power than Les Clans and in 2015 it seems to flaunt its 80+ year old Grenache vine credentials on its sleeve. This wine might have the palest of coral colours but it is made from imperial red fruit. The alcohol (14% vol.) informs you that this is not an ephemeral rosé, unlike so many. This is a wine which is thrumming with bass power and yearning to be set free from its restraints. It has a depth of fruit on the nose which I have not seen before at this estate. Savoury, chiselled, powerful and majestic, Garrus is a product of its idyllic environment, its highly talented creators, Sacha’s inspirational vision and also the raw red earth from which it was torn. I sense that Garrus will, one day, be mentioned in the same breath as wines like La Tâche, Latour, Vieilles Vignes Françaises and Le Montrachet. I don’t know when that might be but in the meantime I will be serving this rosé at the same table as these other great wines in the knowledge that it has finally lived up to its promise.