2022 Bin 311 Tumbarumba Chardonnay, Penfolds, Australia

The 2022 Bin 311 Chardonnay hails from three regions: Tasmania (38%), Tumbarumba (33%) and the Adelaide Hills (29%). It matured in French oak for eight months (34% new). Crushed salted nuts, white peach and layers of nectarine and green apple populate the palate. It's svelte, polished and classy to a tee. It has the Penfolds phenolic stamp of seamlessness without being glossy or overdone. Lovely wine. Pleasure here! It was a lovely season in all three regions. Drink 2023 – 2032. 12.5% alc

Extremely restrained and chewy. Quite a bit of oak influence on the nose. Australian austerity means it’s clean and lifted but not that much fun on the palate. Light smokiness – I don’t suppose any of these ingredients have seen much oxygen! Drink 2024 – 2028. 12.5% alc

Clean, bright, and primary with lovely purity and oodles of fleshy peachiness on the front of the palate, Bin 311 tightens up eventually, but not as firmly as it has done in the past. The result is a layered, open, buoyant and forward-drinking wine with more precocity than of late. The oak adds a degree of succulence, giving the impression of a fuller-framed wine, but the fruit maintains a relatively slender framework. Drink now – 2030. 12.5% alc

A third each of Tasmania, Adelaide Hills and Tumbarumba fruit, 'Baby Yattarna' is a belter this vintage, benefiting from a significant portion of wine originally destined for Yattarna and Reserve Bin A. The generosity of the latter's ripe nectarine and pistachio croissant richness grabs you first, but then cleansing acidity, oyster shell tang and bright lemon balm, grapefruit peel and lime juice perkiness take over, meaning your initial impression of opulence ends up as graceful and restrained. The eight months in French barrique (34% new) delivers roundness and mouthfeel more than toasty spice, and the pure fruit flavours linger long. A great buy this vintage, for drinking now or to cellar. Drink 2023 – 2023. 12.5% alc