2021 Magill Estate Shiraz, Penfolds, South Australia

The only single-vineyard wine in the Australian Collection (although the Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet is also a single-vineyard wine, from Block 13A on the Gamble Ranch), the 2021 Magill Estate Shiraz leads, as per usual, with lavender, bergamot (Earl Grey tea), milk chocolate, raspberry coulis and red licorice. The tannins have a good feeling in the mouth— chewy, full, ductile and fresh. There's something like nori, brine, red apple skins and something Japanese (togarashi?). It's a lovely wine. Gorgeous, in fact. Inky. Drink 2023 – 2051. 14.5% alc

Wow! A sumptuous nose that is both luscious, floral, compact and of spicy restraint, reflective of a cooler, attenuated, Euro sort of ripening window. This drinks like a warmer vintage from the Northern Rhone, opening with violets before flecks of pepper grind, mace and clove come to the fore. A douse of camphor and smoked meats to the mid-palate. The feel, lithe and energetic; mid-weighted over obviously full and immensely satisfying. An exceptional Magill that sashays a little looser across its tannic seams than some of the other top bottlings. As a result, it is approachable now, although destined for a long life, if one is patient. Drink or hold. 14.5% alc

The notes say ‘crafted the original way’ but surely way back they would not have had 90% new French oak? Blackish purple. Smells unlike the other wines in this stable and the texture is much rounder and saltier. Already a pleasure to drink for fans of the This document is for internal use only. quintessential South Australian style. A wine that really does seem to cleanse the palate. Drink 2023 – 2037. 14.5% alc

With tremendous weight, trademark Italianate shape and curious Mencía-like aura on account of its minerality and metallic acid tinge, this vintage suits Magill with its heightened perfume and raw, bloody edges. While it will need patience, it will come good and show a willowy, whippy, sinewy style when the tannins eat more of the fruit and it will end up medium-weight, toned and, dare I say it, magical when it finally emerges from its shell. Drink 2026 – 2040. 14.5% alc

The composed 2021 single vineyard Shiraz, from Magill Estate - now located in the suburbs of Adelaide, offers up a complex, unique and elegant style of South Australia. Wafts of dried spices, sage, earth and aged meats offer a tempting start, with tar hints in the mix. It’s then relatively seamless with savory and spicy layers of flavors supported by a gentle seam of tannins through to a seductive finish. The 2021 is an earlier drinking vintage but hard not to love.