2021 Luke Lambert Nebbiolo, Yarra Valley
Anyone who spends longer than five minutes in Luke Lambert's company will know that Nebbiolo is where his heart truly lies, and his dedication to this grape is admirable, not least since he himself acknowledges he probably won't live to see it reach its full potential in the Yarra Valley. Nevertheless, Luke is already crafting some beautiful wines from this finickety variety, dry grown in the Valley, and has done since the early 2010s. In 2022 it's particularly impressive, with tons of dark fruit and pretty floral perfume. It doesn't match Barolo for structure, but is warm and approachable in style, with a gourmand, savoury feel on the long finish.