Lilbert is a tiny estate, just 3.5 hectares, and their graceful Cramant wines - one of the prized grand cru villages of the Côte des Blancs - are highly sought-after by connoisseurs. This non-vintage grand cru is a blend of 50% 2019 and 50% reserve wine. It has a sea air, briny freshness, and is so quintessentially chalky blanc de blancs on the nose. The palate has a soft mousse (it is slightly lower pressure than mainstream Champagnes) and a salty, fresh length with an agile weight. It is discreet and reserved on first opening, but its reticent refrain opens up with some coaxing. One for the purists.
The latest rendition of Lilbert's NV Grand Cru Cramant Blanc de Blancs was disgorged in spring 2019 with a low three grams per liter dosage. It's based on the 2016 vintage, complemented by 50% reserve wines. Offering up a crisp and pure bouquet of green apple, wet stones and lemon oil, as well as subtle suggestions of freshly baked bread, it's medium to full-bodied, racy and incisive, with fine depth at the core, a delicate mousse and a chalky finish. This is quite a tender, charming rendition of this cuvée, despite the very low dosage, but as usual it will amply reward some aging on cork.
Critic score 91/100
Maturity Ready 2022 - 2030
Prices shown in bond
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