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100% Pinot Noir. Cédric Bouchard is enjoying a meteoric rise in his reputation. These are fast becoming some of the hardest to find Champagnes. He had started his career as a sommelier in Paris, but in 2000 decided to return home to the family domaine in Celles-sur-Ource in the Côte des Bar, where he has brought his huge knowledge of world wine styles to bear on his own thoughtful production. His way of making wines often leans more towards Burgundy than Champagne. His philosophy is: single vineyard, single variety. And in each of his cuvées he seems to transcend both, creating something truly special. He has some of the lowest yields in all of Champagne, and practices ageing in tank, low pressure, and zero dosage. This is his classic Pinot Noir from 1.45 hectares of 35 year old vines. Low pressure with a gentle mousse.
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Bouchard’s Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine is especially strong in 2017 and also a fabulous introduction to this range of magnificent Champagnes. Beautifully resonant and inviting, the 2017 is so gorgeous. Pear, baked apple, dried flowers, mint and spice all build as the 2017 opens up in the glass. More than anything else, the 2017 impresses with its poise and raciness. The slightly reductive character found in some previous releases is not present in the 2017, and that really lets the purity of the fruit shine through. Bouchard does not push this site to the degree he does most of his other vineyards, so the Val Vilaine doesn’t quite offer the complexity of the top wines here, but words really can’t do justice to just how delicious the 2017 is. Don’t miss it. No dosage. Disgorged: April, 2019.
Prices shown in bond
Critic score 94/100
Maturity Ready 2020 - 2030
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