2014 Garrus Rosé, Château d'Esclans, Côtes de Provence

"I cannot believe that rosé wine can get any finer nor any more captivating than this wine. I have left a half a point off my score in order that owner / winemaker Sacha Lichine and his guru consultant Patrick Leon can one day prove me wrong, but this wine is, as far as I know (because it is inevitably breaking new ground), a perfect creation. The colour alone is exquisite – it seems to have a light filament inside, emitting a coral-coloured glow which manages to illuminate everything in its path. Garrus, made from 80+ year old vines (pictured), is a wine which treads an exquisite balancing act between awe-inspiring restraint and elegance and profound depth and unnerving power. There is spectacular density of fruit here coupled with insane length, but it is all done with heart-breaking control and finesse. Bottled only 5 weeks before my visit in late August, this is a wine which already knows how to carry itself. It is catwalk-ready and its momentum and cadence are thrilling. The oak is very sexy – I can’t think of more ravishing couture carpentry. I have no doubt that it will need another six months to a year to reach its peak of performance, but I can tell you that everyone who follows this wine will have hunted it down and secured it safely in their cellar long before this date. My advice is to buy it today and then make sure you are on allocation for the rest of your life." 19.5/20 points, Matthew Jukes, matthewjukes.com