2022 Sancerre Les Denisottes, Domaine Claude Riffault
Staggering attention to detail is paid by Stéphane Riffault in both the vineyard and cellar. He is unquestionably making some of the most exciting wines in the appellation. They stand out for their tightly coiled, supercharged concentration. This is Sauvignon Blanc as you've never known it before: powerful, with a filigree, piercing, precise freshness. It is Burgundian in stature. It comes from a parcel grown on Kimmeridgian marl, known locally as terres blanches, which produces wines full of flavour and texture. Long, slow fermentations in large oak foudres encourage complex savoury expression from the Sauvignon Blanc. This is not to be missed.