2021 Sancerre Les Denisottes, Claude Riffault
Staggering attention to detail is paid by Stéphane Riffault in both the vineyard and cellar. He is unquestionably making some of the most exciting wines in the appellation. They stand out for their tightly coiled, supercharged concentration. This is Sauvignon Blanc as you've never known it before: powerful, with a filigree, piercing, precise freshness. It reminds me of the best 2014s, Chablis-eqsue in stature. It comes from a parcel grown on Kimmeridgian marl, known locally as terres blanches, which produces wines full of flavour and texture. The 2021 is a tour de force, and appropriately marks the domaine's first year with full biodynamic certification.