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The Dentelles de Montmirail is a small range of jagged, spiky mountains whose white limestone ridges resemble intricate lacework, hence their name. They look down across the appellation of Gigondas in the southern Rhône, and it’s always their pale crags, and the smell of the herb-filled scrub with its thyme, olive and bay, that grows up the slopes that I think of when I stick my nose in a glass of Gigondas. That’s because, in a good one, you can kind of smell it there – the hot white stones and the leaves of the tindery herbs. This is just such a Gigondas – incredibly expressive – Domaine la Bouissière is one of the best. This is a red with a very expressive nose, then the red-fruited, heat-filled flare of the grenache (blended with 30 per cent syrah) kicks in – all ripe mulberries with the herbs and stone showing through. Gorgeous and dreamy. Brilliant with roast leg of lamb – the heat of summer on a short, dark day.Victoria Morre, The Telegraph, Nov 2015
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