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Criots is a tiny Grand Cru, just one and a half hectares, making Fontaine-Gagnard one of the largest owners, with one third of a hectare. The south-east-facing slope, with poor limestone soils, yields a wine with superb power and tension. But this is only achieved when the parcel is picked at just the right moment. Céline says she watches it like a hawk, catching it before the fruit ripens into the tropical spectrum.
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The 2023 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru takes time to unfurl touches of walnut and smoke infusing its citrus fruit notes in the glass. The palate is well balanced, very smooth and slightly creamy in texture with discrete hints of praline and white chocolate. This lingers long in the mouth. It's a beautifully crafted Criots, though I prefer the 2022 at this stage.
Critic score 90/100
Maturity Ready 2025 - 2032
Prices shown in bond
Maturity Young 2025 - 2033
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