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This tiny monopole vineyard is just 0.57 hectares, and along with the Clos des Chênes, is the jewel in the Lafarge crown. They have bottled it separately since 1985, and it has since become their most sought-after release. The grapes are de-stemmed by hand, such is the reverence in which the family hold this site: in their eyes, a grand cru. It has a texture that can only be described as lacy: so fine, so complex, intricate, and detailed.
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The 2024 Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs 1er Cru, which was de-stemmed by hand over a day, is endowed with a delightful bouquet, opening gradually with tertiary red fruit, wet clay and rose petal scents that blossom in the glass. Quintessential Lafarge. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins just like the Clos des Chênes, silky in texture with a precise and persistent finish. This should end up at the top of my banded score but like others it will be irresistible in its youth.
A brisk crimson ruby colour. The fruit is more immediate like the Caillerets, these two cuvées receiving the same preparatory treatment, with 19th century style destemming and a vertical press. Quite peppery behind the cherry raspberry fruit which has impressive intensity. Drink from 2032-2039. Tasted Oct 2025.
Critic score 92.25/100
Maturity Young 2027 - 2044
Prices shown in bond
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Critic score 91/100
Maturity Ready 2026 - 2040
Critic score 90.5/100
Maturity Ready 2025 - 2034
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