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The domaine has an impressive 10 hectares in their home village of Marsannay. They bottle five separate cuvées, including the wonderful Grasses Têtes, which sits at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its quirky name (meaning “fat heads”) refers to the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, with the greatest tannic charge, recalling Gevrey-Chambertin. The 2023 has a fragrant and salty dynamism. This is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair, and a top contender for promotion to Premier Cru status.
The 2023 Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes has a slightly more opulent bouquet than other cuvées, though it's nicely controlled, with candied orange peel tincturing the blackcurrant pastille scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a little more oak on the entry, fine depth, smooth texture and a touch of brown spice on the finish. Drink over six to eight years.
A rich dense ruby purple. The nose is not especially forthcoming but I sense a density of darker fruit here. Very intense on the palate, with firm tannins which are well integrated, and a wealth of dark raspberry and boysenberry fruit, maintaining freshness. Very good. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Nov 2024.
Critic score 91/100
Maturity Ready 2025 - 2036
Prices shown in bond
Critic score 91.75/100
Maturity Young 2026 - 2040
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