Shortly before the harvest Cyprien marks up his premium vines which can be picked first. The others are picked a little later and then integrated, though a proportion may be (and in 2023 were) deselected. It would be hard to be much more meticulous than that! The 2023 Clos de la Roche shows a paler colour, with a fabulous nose. More savoury, yet very sensual, some blueberries, a very graceful perfume, a magical texture with more glycerol, perfectly ripe phenologically yet not overdone, a little saline note further back on the palate. Very complex, absolutely fascinating. Remarkably long. Drink from 2033-2040. Tasted Dec 2024. Five stars.