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This is a clear stand-out in the Arlaud cellar. It’s the most dramatic wine in the line up, outpacing the other Grand Cru with its grip, complexity and swagger. A truly great Clos de la Roche.
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The 2023 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru, which contains just over 30% whole bunch, has a knockout bouquet with very mineral-driven black fruit, damp loam and hints of black olive, complex and engaging. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins and good weight. It is very pure in style, although the previous vintage delivers a little more complexity toward the finish. This is more linear and "correct" in style. It will still offer many years of pleasure, even if patience is required.
Shortly before the harvest Cyprien marks up his premium vines which can be picked first. The others are picked a little later and then integrated, though a proportion may be (and in 2023 were) deselected. It would be hard to be much more meticulous than that! The 2023 Clos de la Roche shows a paler colour, with a fabulous nose. More savoury, yet very sensual, some blueberries, a very graceful perfume, a magical texture with more glycerol, perfectly ripe phenologically yet not overdone, a little saline note further back on the palate. Very complex, absolutely fascinating. Remarkably long. Drink from 2033-2040. Tasted Dec 2024. Five stars.
Critic score 91/100
Prices shown in bond
Critic score 90/100
Maturity Young 2027 - 2034
Critic score 86.75/100
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