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Bruno Clair is one of only five producers of this revered premier cru, that many regard as equal to the Gevrey grands crus. The Clairs refer to it as ‘the Prince of Gevrey’. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. A dramatic storm in June hit the Combe de Lavaux meaning yields were once again down here in 2022, bucking the general trend. But what they did make shows a suave power, and a cool, controlled, elegance.
Glowing purple. The bouquet is absolutely regal. What else to say? The palate offers a fantastic complexity varying from the sweetness of perfect ripeness through to a more savoury character from the terroir. The length of flavour transcends anything else. Gracefulness personified. Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted: November 2023.
The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a pixelated bouquet that blossoms in the glass. The terroir’s nobility really floods through here: animated red fruit and crushed stone, hints of white flower and freshly tilled earth. The taut, linear palate is quite strict; it’s a serious Clos Saint-Jacques with a long, saline finish. The palate is not giving much away at the moment—it’s all on the nose, but I have confidence in it.
Critic score 89.25/100
Maturity Ready 2025 - 2035
Prices shown in bond
Critic score 91/100
Maturity Ready 2025 - 2036
Critic score 91.75/100
Maturity Young 2026 - 2040
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