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This is an important vineyard both in terms of its size (a substantial 5.23 ha) and its historical stock of old vines (some now over 100 years old) which are used as a source of top quality massale selection by nurseries. That’s because its plant material is simply supreme. High-density planting and old vines means low yields are the norm, but 2022 set a new record. At 36 hl/ha this is the most abundant vintage that current régisseur, Paul Zinetti, has made since taking over in 2014. To put this in context, the limit for Pommard premier cru is 56hl/ha, so even in a bigger vintage, the concentration here is exquisite. It is another great example of the Clos, and another chance for Paul to rewrite the old trope that Pommard is muscular and rustic only: instead this is powerful, svelte, profound, and intense. It is truly one of the greatest vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.
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First we tasted the component parts. (1) Young vines from 1980s. A deep concentrated purple. Lesser foliage in the hot dry summer has concentrated the colour and other aspects, giving a dark style of fruit as well, with a nutty finish, but good acidity. (2) A blend, mainly from plot #3 and a bit of #1. Mid purple in colour, less demonstrative on the nose. A much suppler style of fruit, less forceful acidity, fine length, more typical Epenots here. (3) Old vines, 90+ years old: A deep glowing purple. A little more intensity, a gorgeous quality of deep red fruit, just a touch tougher in its tannins, plus the acidity. (4) Press wine: dark purple, powerful rather than fine on the nose, more volatile, but could be useful in the blend. Sweet thick dark red to black fruit. Chunky stuff. And now the blend: A deep purple colour with only a very slightly lighter rim. The bouquet suggests poise as the fruit has melded together harmoniously. On the palate this is, as almost always, a much more complete wine than the individual parts. The wine seems to push down deeper while retaining all the class of the very best components. We are approaching the cusp of red and black fruit, the acidity is perfectly harnessed and the tannins are fine grained. Potentially a very fine Clos des Epeneaux. Drink from 2032-2040+. Tasted: October 2023. 5 stars.
Maturity Ready 2025 - 2029
Prices shown in bond
Critic score 88/100
Critic score 89/100
Maturity Ready 2025 - 2030
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