Jacques Devauge has settled in and is now really hitting his stride in this magnificent Clos de Lambrays. He vinifies the Clos in 11 separate parcels, and in so doing, masterfully draws out the exuberance and tension of the site. There is a delicious roasted/torrefaction quality to the reductive, svelte nose: this is extremely smart Pinot Noir. It shows massive potential on the palate, being both voluminous and gentle at the same time. It has depth, dimension, texture, light and shade.
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The 2022 Clos des Lambrays contains 80% whole bunches (100% in the very old vines, a lower proportion elsewhere). A fine even deep ruby purple. The bouquet is backward with still a suggested intensity of fruit that can easily cope with the stems. Beautifully suave with an enveloping dark red fruit, a very graceful finish on silky, refined tannins, and we don’t often say silky for Morey St Denis. They are caressing, according to Jacques. The floral touch works throughout, beautifully long and sensual. Drink from 2032-2042+. Tasted: November 2023.
The 2022 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a blend of 11 different cuvées and includes, for the first time, the plot of "30 Rangs". This vintage includes 80% whole bunches, and like La Richemoine, it is deftly subsumed on the nose, which blossoms with vivacious red berry fruit, forest floor, white truffle, and light autumn leaf scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a svelte Clos des Lambrays with a slightly chalky, mineral-rich finish. Very tender and complex, this is undoubtedly a great wine with a long-term future.
Critic score 90.5/100
Maturity Young 2025 - 2035
Prices shown in bond
Maturity Young 2026 - 2035
Maturity Young 2028 - 2038
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