Bruno Clair has an impressive 10 hectares in his home village of Marsannay, and bottles five separate cuvées, including this wonderful iteration from a single parcel at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its name (meaning “fat heads”) refers not to anybody involved in its cultivation, but rather the large rocks that show through the surface of the soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, and in 2019 has peppery red fruit and a fresh crunch that runs through the mineral tannins. Quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair. Since being bottled it has evolved to reveal a wonderfully floral aroma with a supple palate, so poised and juicy. This will drink brilliantly from early on.
The 2019 Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes has a perfumed bouquet with red cherries, raspberry and wilted rose petals, nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied with candied red fruit mixed with cassis and touches of vanilla towards the finish. Something joyful about this cuvée this year.
Young 2023 - 2033
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Young 2024 - 2036