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Dominique Lafon declassifies the fruit of young vines grown in the 4 hectare plot into the Volnay, meaning the 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu cuvée is the exclusive product of old vines. It is a complex red, with aromatic density, sour cherry freshness and a long, mineral finish.
The 2019 Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu 1er Cru, matured in a little more new oak than the Clos des Chênes (around one-third, according to Lafon), offers a quintessential Santenots nose of almost brazen blueberry and cassis aromas mixed with raspberry and violets. The palate is rounded on the entry and exerts a gentle grip. Opulent but controlled, though this year I find more nuance and sensuality on the Champans, which would be my pick of Lafon’s reds.
Critic score 90/100
Maturity Young 2025 - 2032
Prices shown in bond
Maturity Young 2025 - 2030
Maturity Young 2025 - 2033
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