2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Ponsot
This is the pinnacle of the Ponsot cellar: their most famous and emblematic cuvée, and the one most demanding of time in the cellar. It comes from two parcels: the first is from the Monts Luisants part of the vineyard, which is home to both the oldest (some are over 80 years old) and youngest vines in the blend. The tannins of Monts Luisants are structural and firm, and will gain in tenderness with age. The rest comes from the original Clos de la Roche parcel in the heart of the hillside, which adds expressive fruit to the blend. Less dense on the palate, but with a lithe and silky fruit core, it brings a perfect balance to the finished wine. In all, the cuvée draws from 3.4 hectares, and is vinified in 5 separate tanks. They continue through their élévage as distinct parts, only blended towards the end before bottling. The finished assemblage is one of profound complexity and depth, offering up violets, peonies, cassis, red currants, iodine, blood orange, and smoky spice. And through all this fruit concentration, the wine retains an arresting freshness. This is a staggering wine of utter brilliance, rich and resplendent.