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This is Jacques Devauges’s first vintage at the helm, and what a mark he has made. We tasted a blend of the various plots, carefully assembled by Jacques from barrel. The depth and dimensions of this Clos are extraordinary. It has notes of wild berries on the nose, with hints of flowers, tobacco and spice. The palate is drenched in fruit concentration, but there is nothing overpowering or heavy here - it has the natural grace and freshness of the best 2019s, with the underlying, subtle power of the fine grand cru terroir. This should prove one of the most fascinating Clos de Lambrays of the past 20 years. Conversion to organic farming twinned with the 2019 growing conditions resulted in a very small yield (just 15 hl/ha) and as a result this wine is released in tiny quantities.
The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru was tasted both as separate parcels per vine age and as a final blend, which is 13.6° alcohol. This year the whole bunch contribution is 80%, matured in 60% new oak, which is a little more than it used to be and from various cooperages (hitherto it was exclusively François Frères with very light toasting.) This has an intense bouquet, initially very tightly wound and requiring aeration, gradually revealing predominantly black fruit, crushed limestone, graphite and pressed iris flower aromas. Very fine delineation but certainly aromatics that will require bottle age. The palate confirms this. It is very fresh on the entry with a much subtler influence of the stems compared to those under former winemaker Thierry Brouin. There is a light tang of white pepper and tobacco, very fine tannins with a poised, almost understated finish that is silky smooth in texture. Swallowing a mouthful (it was the finally tasting of the day) there is persistence that I think was lacking in recent vintages. This balletic, "Margot Fonteyne of Morey-Saint-Denis", will pirouette across your senses.
Young 2024 - 2034
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Young 2023 - 2037