2015 Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Taupenot-Merme
The Taupenot family have been in Morey-Saint-Denis for seven generations. The domaine is now run by Virginie Taupenot and her brother Romain, whose wines are establishing this as one of the secret stars of the village. This is proper Morey. Dark and spicy, with opulent character and a wildness about the palate. Where it really impresses is the thin line it treads between control and raw power.