2018 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan

The Domaine de Chevalier 2018 Blanc, a blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon, slowly reveals beguiling scents of lemongrass, lime leaves, fresh grapefruit, allspice and ginger with a core of fresh lemon and grapefruit. Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers bold citrus and spice layers with fantastic tension and a chalky finish. Aging on lees in barriques, 35% new, is anticipated to go for 16 months.

What this white does that not everyone has achieved in 2018 is hold your attention. It's not a 2017 or 2011 at Chevalier, but it has grip and personality and a whoosh of citrus and fleshy pear flavours that are highly enjoyable. Touches of spice run through the finish, together with a sweetness that speaks of the ripeness of the fruit. You could drink it today of course, but this is a white that can go two decades without blinking, so I wouldn't worry too much.

This is dense and very structured with phenolic tension and depth. Full-bodied, lightly phenolic with sliced apples, cooked pears and lemons. Lively and intense. Solid as a rock. This is one to watch.

Domaine de Chevalier's Blanc is surprisingly unctuous in this vintage. Lemon confit, dried flowers and chamomile are some of the many notes that develop in the glass. The Blanc is, of course, famous for its ageworthiness, but I don't see the complexity, energy or structure of the very best years. I would prefer to drink it on the younger side. In 2018, the red is vastly more interesting than the Blanc. The blend is 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon. Tasted three times.