1996 Château Pape Clément, Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan

Robert Parker: This is an elegant, complex, distinctive wine that depends on its aromatic complexity and harmonious display of fruit and structure for appeal. It will not knock over tasters with a display of power or muscle. The color is a healthy dark ruby. The wine offers up roasted herb, tobacco, sweet cranberry and black currant fruit aromas. It is medium-bodied, with a rich, layered, silky impression, excellent purity, and soft tannin in the finish. Surprisingly forward, it appears to be on a rapid evolutionary track, although it will keep for 15 or more years.

Château Pape-Clément has been constantly improving ever since the very ambitious Bernard Magrez acquired the estate, and the rising quality over the last 2 decades is proof that a lot of work has been done in the vineyard and the winery. This wine represents a great opportunity to enjoy a fully mature, top-flight claret from a great vintage, at a much lower price than the latest vintage released, or than anything of similar breed from trendier communes. This would be perfect with roasted rack of lamb and wild mushrooms.