2025 Château Palmer, Margaux

The 2025 Palmer was picked between September 4 and 26 at just 20 hl/ha (Duroux mentioned how yields have decreased by around 10 hl/ha over the last decade). Matured in 80% new oak and then racked into foudres the following June, it is quintessentially Palmer on the nose with those almost extravagant floral violet scents that blossom in the glass. Wonderful delineation and focus, touches of Indian ink and cassis emerge with time. The palate is very smooth and velvety on the entry, disguising the substance and weight of this wine. Impressive in terms of density, with a little more grip than the Alter Ego, it delivers just the right amount of spice that gives the finish another dimension. One of the longer-term Margaux wines that would benefit from a cellar in its first few years.

Clear spice, cumin, cloves, incense, wonderfully balanced, extremely slow unroll through the palate, floral Cabernet character dominant with crushed rose petals, and aromatics are totally jumping out of the glass. 3.65ph, harvest September 8 to 24. In terms of the blend, 1998 had more Merlot than Cabernet Sauvignon in Palmer, so that is a good sign. Thomas Duroux director. The soils here have that layer of gravel but also clay that really comes in useful in dry vintages such as 2025.

One of the most refined and seamless wines of the vintage is the 2025 Palmer, a blend of 55% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot that wafts from the glass with aromas of sweet blackberries, plums and licorice complemented by floral accents of violet and wisteria (yes, the window of the tasting room was closed). Full-bodied, suave and layered, with a deep and concentrated core of fruit, bright acids and supple tannins, it's already harmonious and complete, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. At only 13.5% alcohol, this is quite a bit lower than most recent sunny vintages at Palmer.

The 2025 Palmer is unusual in that Merlot drives the blend this year (55%). That results in an unusually juicy Grand Vin. Even so, there's plenty of supporting structure. Black fruit, lavender, menthol, licorice, gravel and chocolate build into a driving, potent finish. There's a lot of gravitas and substance here.