2024 Château d'Issan, Margaux

The 2024 Château d’Issan is a classic blend picked between September 26 and October 8, matured in 50% new oak. This has a quintessential Margaux nose with crushed violet permeating the black fruit, fine delineation, focus and satisfying vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with a surprisingly sweet entry and decent grip. Blueberry infuses the mid-palate and a dash of white pepper and a little graphite emerge toward the finish. This d'Issan probably has the legs to mature in bottle for up to 20 years, though its lack of substance means that I would be more inclined to drink this in its flush of youth.

The 2024 d'Issan is pretty closed in on itself. Issan is usually a showier wine at this stage, but the 2024 is decidedly virile, almost somber in feel. Floral, spice and earthy notes open with some coaxing, and yet the Grand Vin is only showing a fraction of what it has to offer. I do admire its strong character, however. The 2024 will be a fascinating Issan to follow.

Lovely deep rich if savoury and precisely-carved rube red fruits on the opening. This is a serious Issan, well structured with waves of crushed roses, rose buds, crayon and saffron. Slim and savoury with enjoyable finesse. Harvest 26 September to 8 October. 3.58 pH. 50% new oak. Éric Pellon technical director, Eric Boissenot consultant.