2024 Château Léoville Las Cases, St-Julien

The 2024 Léoville Las Cases was picked between September 30 and October 9 at 31 hl/ha (compare that to 11 hl/ha next door at Latour!). It is aged for 18 months in 75% new oak barrels with 6.3% pressed wine. It has a backward, almost surly bouquet with introverted black fruit, cedar, touches of cumin and light sea spray scents. Superb delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with less structure than the last two vintages, yet it upholds wonderful balance with lace-like tannins. With crisp black fruit and beautifully assimilated new oak, this fans out towards the finish. It is paradoxically a more conservative Las Cases in keeping with the limitations of the growing season, but I suspect it will gain weight and sustain with time in barrel.

The 2024 Léoville Las-Cases is gorgeous. All the Las-Cases signatures are present, just dialed down a touch. Blue/purplish fruit, lavender, grilled herbs, graphite and menthol are all beautifully delineated. The 2024 is distinguished by its precision and total class. Time in the glass brings out the wine's intensely floral, spice-inflected aromatics. Brisk acids and bracing mineral notes wrap it all together in style. I can't wait to taste this from bottle.

Medium to full intensity, vivid plum with vibrant violet around the rim, ink, black tea, chamomile flowers, slate, graphite, redcurrant, rose petals, cassis, bilberry, raspberry leaf, delivers the texture, tension and complexity that you expect from this level of estate in any vintage, and it is a success, reserved, slim and savoury with ageing potential. Arnaud Delon now at the estate, working alongside his father Jean-Hubert Delon. 31hl/ha yield. New cellars now in operation for the winemaking, 75% new oak. 3.60 pH. 31 hl/ha. 6.3% press wine. Harvest 30 September to 9 October.

One of the wines of the vintage, and certainly one that's likely to number among the longest-lived, is the 2024 Léoville Las Cases, a blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot that attained 13.1% alcohol. Unwinding in the glass with a pure, intense bouquet of cassis, violets and pencil shavings, it's medium to full-bodied, with terrific mid-palate density and concentration but also a seamless integration of tannin and acidity that's especially rare this year, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. Jean-Hubert Delon observes that the 2024 shares "the aromas and flavors of the 1986," defined by Cabernet Sauvignon ripened at the end of the growing season, though of course the 2024, lacking the huge power and structure of that vintage, is much more amiable than the 1986.