2023 Réserve de Pichon Comtesse, Pauillac

The 2023 Réserve de la Comtesse is fabulous. This is the first vintage in which Cabernet Sauvignon drives the blend, the result of extensive replanting over the years and vines that are now old enough to be used here. Among other things, that means the Réserve is more closely aligned with the Grand Vin in style, starting in the vineyard. Potent and explosive, the 2023 offers up a heady mélange of dark fruit, leather, spice, grilled herbs and lavender. It’s a stellar wine in every way. Tasted three times.

The 2023 Réserve de la Comtesse has a lovely bouquet, discrete initially, then opening with cassis and light violet fruit. It never shouts too loudly at this early stage. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins on the entry. There’s also a stronger graphite element than I have noticed in recent vintages, due to the higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%). This is a classically styled Réserve.

I like the freshness and linear character to this second wine of Pichon Lalande. It's medium-bodied with creamy and polished tannins that are fine at the end. It is linked from start to finish. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 5% cabernet franc and 5% petit verdot.

A terrific second wine, the 2023 Resèrve de la Comtesse wafts from the glass with a pure bouquet of blackcurrants, dark berries, lilac and pencil shavings. Medium to full-bodied, layered and velvety, it's sensual and vibrant, with melting tannins and a deep core of cool fruit framed by polished but present tannins. This blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc marks the 50th anniversary of this second wine's production.