2023 Château Haut-Bages-Libéral, Cru Classé Pauillac

The 2023 Haut-Bages Libéral is fabulous. Deep, layered and exquisitely beautiful, the 2023 bristles with tension. Dark red cherry, plum, spice, leather, menthol and licorice grace a wine of depth, richness and sensuality. It's a terrific effort from proprietor Claire Villars-Lurton.

The 2023 Haut-Bages Libéral was picked at 53hL/ha between September 12 and 30, matured for 16 months in 40% new oak. The nose was quite backward when I tasted it, though Claire Villars-Lurton commented that it had just closed down the week that I visited. It will be more open once in bottle. The palate is more indicative: clean, fresh, linear and nicely focused, with more grip than the Ferrière. Touches of graphite linger on the finish. This is very classically styled, and there is nothing wrong with that–a wine for Pauillac purists and those seeking wines with less sulfites.

A very pure and beautiful HBL with blackcurrant and mineral notes, like crushed stones, as well as a vivid freshness. Purity and brightness in the center-palate, with essence of cassis and a crunchy minerality from part of the vineyard in limestone. 86% cabernet sauvignon and 14% merlot. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification.

The 2023 Haut-Bages-Libéral is very promising, bursting with aromas of dark berries, cassis, pencil shavings and violets, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and suave palate with an enveloping core of fruit, lively acids typical of this limestone terroir, and sweet, powdery tannins. It's a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot with a low pH of 3.48.