2023 La Mondotte, Grand Cru St-Emilion

The 2023 La Mondotte is fabulous. In fact, the 2023 is one of the best Mondottes I can remember tasting. A wine of vertical, explosive energy, La Mondotte dazzles from the very first taste. Inky dark fruit, mocha, lavender, new leather, spice and dried herbs build as this dynamic, complex Saint-Émilion shows off its compelling personality. Superb.

The 2023 La Mondotte was picked from September 19 to 30 at 37hL/ha with a 35-day cuvaison, aged in 40% new oak. Cut from a similar cloth to its stablemate, Canon-la-Gaffelière, this is mineral-driven and strict, much stonier than previous vintages, a touch of blood orange emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It’s a little juicier than the Canon-la-Gaffelière, with moderate and a slightly citrusy finish. This is a classy and perhaps uncharacteristically understated La Mondotte.

A dense yet agile wine with blackberry, blueberry, raspberry and citrus aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied with fine tannins that spread across the palate, running the length of the wine and helping it to last for minutes on the finish. 80% merlot and 20% cabernet franc.

I typically have a weakness for Canon-la-Gaffelière in the von Niepperg portfolio, but this year it's the 2023 La Mondotte, a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, that stands out as the highlight of the range. Revealing aromas of dark berries, licorice and petals, framed by creamy new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and harmonious, with good depth at the core, supple tannin and a penetrating finish.