2023 Château Siran, Margaux

The 2023 Sigalas Rabaud is still taking shape in barrel, yet it possesses notable depth and textural richness, even in this somewhat unsettled state. I especially admire its dynamic energy and overall vibrancy. White peach, jasmine, spice, mint and exotic flowers all grace a Sauternes that is distinguished by its flavor concentration and complexity.

The 2023 Siran, picked September 11 to 29, has a well-defined bouquet that is not as complex as the previous vintage. It is focused and delineated, with black fruit mixed with graphite and melted tar, almost Saint-Julien in style. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite minerally and lively without the depth of the 2022, yet rather elegant and refined on the finish. This constitutes a very gracious Margaux and as I tried second and third bottles towards the end of my trip, it just seemed to get better and better.

Wow. This is really well done with plenty of al-dente fruit character, bright acidity and firm, fine tannins that are already well integrated. Medium-bodied. Crunchy.