2018 Château Laroque, Grand Cru St-Emilion

Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Laroque is a little closed to begin, slowly unfurling to reveal fragrant black cherries, wild blueberries and blackberry preserves scents with hints of crushed rocks, underbrush and violets plus a waft of Marmite toast. Full-bodied and jam-packed with bright, crunchy black and blue fruits, it has a firm line of ripe, fine-grained tannins and loads of freshness, finishing very long and layered. Impressive! Being aged in oak barriques, 50% new, the blend is 97% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc.

Beautifully measured, elegant and restrained, this has juiciness and hidden power. It's definitely less exuberant than some, giving tight black fruits and fine tannins alongside a limestone grip and a slate crawl across the palate, slowing you down and forcing you to pay attention as the floral character comes slowly winding out of the glass. Ageing on lees with just two rackings in both barrels and large oak casks. 3.8pH. Harvested 28 September to 12 October.

This is really delicious with so much dark-berry and stone character. Full to medium body and super, integrated tannins. Bright and generous. One of the best from here. We will see if it is better than 2016 and 2015.

The 2018 Laroque is a very pretty, pliant Saint-Émilion. Bright red raspberry, blood orange, mint and sweet floral notes give the 2018 striking energy to play off a core of radiant, supple fruit. Medium in body and gracious, Laroque has so much to offer in 2018. Although Laroque is not one of the most concentrated or structured Saint-Émilions, it is a wine of superb drinkability and pure pleasure. The blend is 97% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. Technical Director David Suire gave the 2018 lots 26-29 days on the skins fermented in cement, with manual pumpovers and punchdowns. New oak is 55%. Suire, best known for his work alongside Nicolas Thienpont, is doing great things at Laroque. Tasted four times.