2015 Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan

Very dark and glamorous-looking. Fairly dumb nose but obviously great weight and intensity. A big brooding monster! Massive charge of tannins. Big and pretty alcoholic on the end. Not very communicative at the moment. Lots of palate-tanning tannins. After a while in the glass, a whiff of cordite emerged. Sorcery?! 15.1%

In 2015, La Mission Haut-Brion is translucent and deeply expressive to the core. Remarkably polished for such a young wine, the 2015 also handles its 15% alcohol with grace. Smoke, graphite, tar, leather and incense, the 2015 exudes intensity allied to freshness, a combination that makes it virtually irresistible in my book. The 2015 is also remarkably nuanced for such a big wine, but it has tremendous persistence in all directions. Scents of rose petal, mint, red cherry and pomegranate meld into the voluptuous finish. Tasted two times.

The 2015 La Mission Haut Brion is a blend of 58% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc that was picked between 9 September and 1 October. Matured in 78% new oak, it has an incredibly pure bouquet with intense blueberry, blackberry, iodine and cold stone aromas that soar from the glass. There is nothing holding back here - a La Mission with real exuberance. The palate is medium-bodied with incredible intensity in the mouth, but without any leaden weight. It is a startling La Mission Haut-Brion to behold at this early stage. It is one of those wines where as a professional critic, I had to adopt a poker face to hide the untrammeled joy this nascent wine imparts. Complete and profound, the 2015 will rank as one of the great modern-day classics from this grand estate, another to add to that long list of magical La Missions.

The purity in this wine is really mindblowing. So perfect. Licorice. Stone. Blackberry, blueberry. Full body. The power is amazing. But then it finishes etheral and so agile and beautiful. I am lost for words. This will rank with the best ever from here including 1975 and 1929. 58% merlot, 35% cabernet sauvignon, and cabernet franc.