Three island winemakers you need to know about 

 

Viñátigo – Heroing Tenerife’s almost-extinct native grape varieties 

From the rugged coastline and volcanic soils of the Canary Islands, Juan Jesús Méndez, founder of Vinitago, has been resurrecting almost-extinct local grape varieties and elevating them to the status of fine wine since 1990.  

In recent years Juan’s son, Jorge, has taken on the mantle, overseeing organic, and sometime biodynamic viniculture on the estate. Here he tells us why the unique topography of Tenerife makes for such delicious wines.   

 ‘Our ungrafted vines are planted under one of the youngest geological soils of the island; basalt rock and sand which give the roots the capacity to go deep into different layers of the soil and extract all the mineral flavours of our volcanic soils. This topography combines with trade winds, ocean influence and the incredibly acidic character of this grape variety, which come from five different vineyards – three are located near the sea, adding salinity and fruit flavours, while two vineyards are high altitude to give that really electric edge. I love enjoying this wine with a dish of fresh fatty tuna; there are many different species here such as medregal, gallo and jurel, all delicious. Ideally I’d enjoy them both after hiking in Anaga or Teno, two protected natural areas which are incredibly beautiful.’ 

Gaia – Where volcanic soils are making electrically brilliant wines 

Santorini is known for its crystalline blue waters and iconic whitewashed buildings; and now it’s getting recognition for its stunning wines too. 

Gaia is a low-intervention estate, carefully tending vines on the volcanic soils of Santorini to create an electrically delicious wild ferment Assyrtiko. 

‘Santorini’s volcanic soils offer the wine a saline, flinty character, that is truly distinctive’ says winemaker Yiannis Paraskevopoulos. ‘The wines have a cornucopia of flavours, from bracing citrus and tangy sherbet, through grapefruit, lemon or tangerine zest, orange flower, preserved lemon, honeysuckle, hibiscus; they are electric and lipsmackingly tannic’. 

He recommends ‘fresh seafood, grilled fish and oysters with this white, ideally enjoyed on Pyrgos mountaintop where you can see the best views of the whole island.’ 

Jako Vino – Centering a unique expression of Dalmatian terroir with delicious whites 

You might not have heard of Pošip before, but if an expertly balanced contrast of ripe tropical flavours and sleek minerality sounds up your street, then you’re going to want to learn more. Ivana Andabak, owner of one of Croatia’s landmark estates Jako Vino tells us more about why this indigenous variety is making waves. 

‘For Pošip, Dalmatia’s flagship grape variety, terroir plays a crucial role — the region’s karst limestone soils limit yields and impart a distinct mineral backbone that defines the wine’s personality. On the nose and palate, delicate citrus notes mingle with tropical aromas of passion fruit and ripe peach, create a harmonious and elegant wine that captures the essence of the Dalmatian coast.  

For food pairing we’d recommend a match that reflects the distinct coastal beauty of this region; dishes such as grilled fish, especially fresh Adriatic sea bass or octopus (traditional Dalmatian food), which perfectly complement the wine’s bright acidity and mineral notes. Another excellent match is Pašticada, a slow-cooked beef stew rich in flavors, balancing beautifully with Pošip’s fruitiness. Sushi is another great match. 

The perfect place to enjoy this wine would be a local hidden gem; the island of Brač is hermitage Stipančić, one of 4 hermitages located on the southern slopes of the island at an altitude of 300-400 meters above sea level.’