Les Hâtes sits in the middle of the village, surrounded by premiers crus on well-draining soil. It makes for a floral, ethereal style of Pinot with lovely proportions. This floral character is a natural expression of the site which David sees emerge every year. 10-15% whole-bunch is brilliantly controlled here. A contender for the best price:quality ratio on the list this year.

This is a bright and zingy entry to Samuel’s grand cru range. It is raised half in tank, half in barrel, and blended together after one year. Its fruit-forward palate has a nice open weave, with typical Chablis verve driving through on the finish.

Three parcels are blended here, creating a complex and crystalline wine. It has the honour of hosting the domaine’s oldest vines, which were planted in 1936. These add beautiful freshness, along with density of fruit. It is one of the most backward wines in the cellar, but the density and precision it possesses promise an exciting future. You are in no doubt of the greatness of this wine when tasting.

Beauroy is a particularly lovely site located within larger Troesmes, and the Fèvre parcel is home to old vines, around 60 years old. Here is mineral structure and a floral lift. It is light on its feet, and it will be a forward drinking premier cru.

Montmains, this year, includes all the fruit from La Forêt, and has a pure, green-apple persistence and long savoury finish. There is plenty of impact here, with a density of fruit and intensity of structure producing a complete and incisive finish.

Bessin-Tremblay’s Valmur is tremendous value for money. It bursts with citrus and salty aromas. It is edgy, slightly reductive, telling you it will need some time. It’s a reserved grand cru, rather than a flamboyant one, but its still waters run deep.

This is mineral, zingy, citrus and intense, with great drive and depth. Plenty of dry extract gives the palate a plump weight and mineral poise. This old vine cuvée takes the prize for ‘hidden gem’ of our Chablis range. It comes from 40- to 70-year-old vines scattered across seven parcels, with a variety of soil structures and exposures. It may be a wine of humble communal classification, but it deserves special attention. Under Diam closure since 2022.

William Fèvre owns almost half of the Bougros lieu-dit, so it’s no wonder theirs is the best example you will find. Its clay soils make a flattering, comparatively early-drinking grand cru, which will show well early. The nose is brimming with the scent of freshly cut grass and the palate has an open, peachy texture. Excellent value.

Montmains is a cool site, and often picked later than most premiers crus. It’s a large site, with various sub-zones of note. The Fèvre example is equal parts Montmains, Forets, and Butteaux. This combination makes for a tense, ripe wine, with salinity and a beautiful chalky freshness.

Andrea Costanti has done it again! This estate is truly on a roll at the moment. The 2021 Conti Costanti Brunello di Montalcino is compelling and elegant, opening with captivating aromas of perfumed berry, cedar, and minty herbs. The palate is taut and energetic, revealing layers of succulent wild raspberry and crushed cherry, underscored by a backbone of finely chiseled, gravelly tannins. While brooding and inward in its youthful state, its fantastic balance and fresh acidity point to a long future. A wine of extreme finesse that will reward patience.