Austria 2022

With an aromatic core of orange blossom and stone fruits enveloped by a nutty and herbaceous texture, the 2022 Grüner Veltliner Loibner is so vibrant and focussed. Though it’s a village level wine, the length, creaminess, and complexity on the palate mean that you could easily mistake it for one of the Wachau’s top crus. It’s zingy, intriguing, and utterly delicious.

The wines of the Wachau have long been defined by mineral and peppery whites made from Grüner Veltliner planted on pure loess soils. And in that context, there are few wines more characteristic than Weingut Knoll’s Ried Kreutles Grüner Veltliner. The Kreutles vineyard sits at the bottom of the Loibenberg with pure loess soils that are perfect for Grüner, and in 2022 it particularly impresses with its complexity and finesse.

The 2022 Gelber Muskateller from the Loibner vineyard is a perfect representation of the grape variety and place. There’s a saline, mineral, and lime-tinged backbone that’s framed by beautiful floral aromatics, stone fruit, and passionfruit notes. There’s something almost Sancerre-like about the wine’s lip-smacking, chalky texture and it’s impressively complex for the price.

First documented in 1381, the Loibenberg is one of Austria’s most storied sites. There’s a silky, velvety texture that makes Weingut Knoll’s 2022 Grüner Veltliner Loibenberg completely irresistible. It’s lighter on its feet than some other Smaragd wines from the vintage, but the harmonious balance of textures, stone-fruited flavours and minerality set it apart as a timeless classic. It dances along the palate like a Viennese waltz, and goes on for ages like a Wagner opera.