1997 Brunello di Montalcino, Fattoria dei Barbi, Tuscany
Dry, Red, Still
Italy
Ready/Drink Up 2006 – 2013 
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Tasting Note
Showing a brick red hue in glass, the 1997 from Fattoria dei Barbi reveals tobacco leaf nuances as well as elements of fully ripe, evolving red berry fruit on the nose. The palate is pure natured and very textural – similar leafy, red fruit characters are in evidence. This is a very harmonious style that hinges on fragrant, lifted fruit. A well-poised Brunello, not as weighty as some 1997s – this will prove attractive in its youth, and in fact could be broached from 2006/7 but will evolve for a further five years.
Region Details
Tuscany dominates the scene, and the wines of chianti remain, in most eyes, the archetypal winestyle. From a low point in the 1970s chianti has improved almost beyond recognition, through a combination of better clones of Sangiovese, more thoughtful blending (Cabernet Sauvignon is now officially sanctioned) - or stand-alone varietals -, reduced yields and better cellar techniques. Its smaller but more powerful brother Brunello di Montalcino has enjoyed immense popularity, and the 'other' Tuscan classic Vino Nobile is doing well. Times are once again good! To the west things are really moving, with almost every day a new winery, vineyard or label announced in Bolgheri or in the Maremma. These are often blends of Bordeaux varieties, serious and influential new-wave wines. Umbria has not shared quite the same limelight yet there are fascinating wines here. And in Abruzzo and Marches great strides for quality have been made.
Vintage Notes
1997 - Italy
Universally great, at least throughout Tuscany and Piemonte, where it was a challenge to grow grapes of less than magnificent quality. A precocious flowering heralded an early vintage, one which enjoyed fine weather from mid-summer to harvest, with occasional showers to refresh the grapes. In Piemonte, the Nebbiolo flourished in the sultry conditions, producing wines of dramatic intensity, flesh and flavour. There was early concern over acidity levels, however the wines are ageing well on account of their impressive extract. Barbera was picked at heroic alcohol levels and some monumental examples were made. Tuscany shared similar conditions, which permitted unblemished ripening and the harvest was bathed in sunshine, delivering Sangiovese of texture and bold richness. Conditions were equally favourable in Bolgheri and the Maremma. Merlot and Cabernet were immediately accessible, yet showed the structure necessary to age well.
Grape Variety
The most important red grape of Tuscany where it provides the heart of chianti and vine nubile di montepulciano wines. Its Brunello clone is solely responsible for the brooding Brunello di Montalcino. Wines from Sangiovese are frequently medium-weight, relatively light in colour and with light tannins. Acidity is pronounced and the grape gives a cherry and herb note. Its lightness has encouraged many producers to add Cabernet sauvignon to beef it up, a practice now authorised for Chianti. Others have chosen to restrict yields to stiffen its resolve, often ageing in new oak barriques to add smoky complexity.
The Brunello clone is solely responsible for the brooding Brunello di Montalcino. Unlike the medium-weight, relatively light chianti variant, Brunello packs a punch in terms of colour, depth and tannins. Acidity is pronounced and the grape gives a meaty note. Oak ageing adds complexity and the wines are famously long-lived.
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