2023 Château Malescot St-Exupéry, Cru Classé Margaux

The 2023 Malescot St. Exupéry is a powerful Margaux that will need a bit of time to come together. Potent tannins wrap around a core of red/purplish fruit, lavender, mint and dried herbs. These days, Malescot is not quite as unyielding as it used to be, but this remains a decidedly old-school Margaux in style and overall philosophy.

The 2023 Malescot Saint Exupéry was cropped at 38hL/ha, picked a day later than the previous year. Lea Zuger told me that they now use six foudres installed in November, meaning there is 60% new oak—less than other vintages. Barrel-maturation will be 14 to 16 months. Whereas in 2022, nearly all the estate’s fruit went into the Grand Vin, this year it represents 75% of the volume. Displaying blackberry and briar on the nose, this demands some coaxing from the glass. There’s just a light, confit-like aroma in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine structure, slightly powdery tannins, modest weight and noticeably fresh acidity and salinity, the latter especially prominent toward the finish. More classically hewn compared to the 2022, this will require five or six years in bottle. Classy.

This has a very deep and beautiful palate with cherries, chocolate, hazelnut and orange peel. Pretty blackcurrants and blue berries, too. Medium body. The finish has gorgeous al-dente fruit at the end and is always subtle. Open tannins. A blend of 58% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot, and 5% petit verdot.

One of the most suave, classy vintages from this estate in some years, the 2023 Malescot St. Exupery is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cherries, berries, licorice and pencil shavings, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and succulent, with good depth at the core, supple tannins and a harmonious, integrated profile. Part of the blend is maturing in foudre.