The domaine has an impressive 10 hectares in their home village of Marsannay. They bottle five separate cuvées, including the wonderful Grasses Têtes, which sits at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its quirky name (meaning “fat heads”) refers to the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, and in 2020 it was initially muscular and athletic, reminding me of Gevrey-Chambertin when tasted from barrel. A recent revisit (spring 2024) to this wine now in bottle reminded me how Pinot Noir has a remarkable ability to surprise. The powdery tannins and fleshy, energetic red-fruit freshness have knitted together seamlessly, and the wine is now an absolute joy. It undeniably retains the structure to age, and tastes easily twice the price it is. This is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair, and a hot contender for promotion to premier cru status.
Critic score 91/100
Maturity Young 2025 - 2037
Prices shown duty paid
Maturity Young 2025 - 2035
Critic score 92/100
Maturity Young 2025 - 2036
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