South Africa: New releases

The Ramnasgras Cinsault is as pure and complex an expression as you’ll find of Cinsault, also known as Hermitage in South Africa, and the country’s workhorse red grape. It comes from a vineyard planted in 1966, and is ageworthy, mineral, and stunningly long. There's loads of pomegranate fruit, salinity, and iron oxide in 2019. So complex.

Just twelve long rows make up the Raaigras Grenache vineyard. Planted in 1952, it’s the oldest Grenache vineyard in the Cape, and faces south east, allowing the longest ripening time possible. Adi jokes that its name rhymes with Rayas, but this is a serious, delicious, ageworthy Grenache in its own right.

BIG is Pieter’s ode to South African Cabernet Sauvignon. It comes from eleven different vineyards, with 8 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2 Cabernet franc and 1 Petit Verdot, all from different altitudes. There's so much vivacity and life here: forget about the jammy Cabernets of South Africa's past

A blend of 71% Syrah, 11% Grenache, 9% Cinsault, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, and just a dash of Viognier, the 2019 Chocolate Block is a wonderfully pure, elegant expression from the heart of the Swartland. Red berry fruit and wild flowers drift from the glass, while the palate shows crystalline purity and a beautifully mineral finish. It punches way above its weight: that they manage to produce this in such quantities is one of the wonders of the wine world.

The first wine that put this estate on the map was the 1997 Syrah, and even today the estate Syrah remains a South African benchmark. Since 2016 it’s been entirely Swartland fruit, benefitting from the minerality of the Porseleinberg, and the rounded fruit from the brown schist of Goldmine. Gottfried has also tweaked the vinification for this, focussing more on larger oak, and a purer expression of Syrah.

The Franschhoek Cabernet Sauvignon comes from four different sites, including some coming on stream from the estate itself. It’s a wonderfully exuberant yet pure expression of Cabernet, that’s one of the Cape’s finest. A little Cabernet Franc makes it into the blend, too, which gives a touch of floral character.

Reenen Borman’s Epilogue Syrah has fast become one of the legendary wines of the Cape, and this 2018 demonstrates why. Notes of rust and wild berries, with wild flowers giving lift and energy. Incredibly pure, focussed, and long, this is more than a match for the greatest wines of the Rhône. It’s not to be missed.

Awarded 97 points by Christian Eeedes, the 2019 Sons of Sugarland from Reenen Borman is a stunning single vineyard Syrah from the Karibib vineyard in the prized Polkedraai area of Stellenbosch. It's reminiscent of great Northern Rhone Syrah, with peppery fruit and tons of texture, and a blood orange element too. This is complex, long, and delicious. Bravo.

The 2019 Mabalel is a delicate, perfumed Pinot Noir from a master of the grape variety in Peter-Allan Finlayson. Notes of pomegranate and grapefruit swirl with wild strawberries and plenty of spice. So elegant and finessed, it’s a real beauty.

The 2019 Cuvée Cinema has a bit more richness than the Malabel. Intense darker fruit and a real juicy intensity combine with slightly grippy tannins, and a very savoury, stony finish. There’s a wonderful interplay between sweet and sour here; a brilliant, complex Pinot Noir.

Made‌ ‌with‌ ‌40%‌ ‌whole‌ ‌bunch,‌ ‌the‌ ‌Syrah‌ ‌on‌ ‌Sandstone‌ ‌is‌ ‌floral‌ ‌with‌ ‌stunning‌ ‌purity‌ ‌and‌ ‌loads‌ ‌of‌ ‌strawberry‌ ‌and‌ ‌cranberry‌ ‌fruit.‌ ‌So‌ ‌silky‌ ‌and‌ ‌elegant,‌ ‌it‌ ‌smells‌ ‌so‌ ‌gorgeous:‌ ‌of‌ ‌violets‌ ‌and‌ ‌white‌ pepper. This is such a pure expression of Syrah. Brilliant.

In 2015 she started with the Nom Pinot Noir. It comes from Kaaimansgat Vineyard in Elandskloof, the same plot that Peter-Allan Finlayson’s Malabel comes from. Indeed, it was Peter-Allan who originally planted the plot in 2008. The vineyard is at 700m of altitude, but the property, which is mostly planted with apple trees, goes even higher. On the peaks that surround the vineyard, there used to be snow every month of the year other than January. Nom stands for nombulelo (gratitude in “Xhosa”) and Nomkhubulwane (a forgotten African goddess of agriculture), and the stunning label was designed by Isabella Kuijers. This is wonderfully floral and lifted, with incredible energy. Delicious.

Paul Sauer is the calling card of the estate, named after the farm’s most famous owner. It was the first South African wine to be awarded a perfect score by a major international critic, with the 2015 receiving 100 points from Tim Atkin MW. In 2017 it’s a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Merlot, from vines of an average of 29 years old. It is, as always, a contender for South Africa’s finest Bordeaux blend.

For many people, Pinotage is what Kanonkop does best: indeed most winemakers in South Africa view it as the benchmark for this divisive grape variety. The grape variety was first planted on Kanonkop in the 1940s, and this comes from bush vines that are aged between 31 and 65 years old. Fermented in open top concrete tanks, and aged in 80% new barrels, it’s a wine that blossoms with time in bottle, becoming more and more reminiscent of its Pinot Noir roots.

From a 0.7ha vineyard on a ridge, planted on red clay with a base of granite, the 2016 Steepside Syrah is a floral, perfumed example of the grape, that wouldn’t look out of place in Côte-Rôtie. There’s real drive on the finish, which lasts an age. This is grown up, and brilliant.

Alex is also passionate about the Cabernet Franc produced on the estate, and is making a single vineyard wine, the Pondokrug Cabernet Franc. From deep clay soils, this is an intense, ripe and powerful wine, but one that benefits from Alex’s delicate winemaking. Really savoury, floral, and very delicate, too. Lovely length here. This is outstanding with plenty of tension. Really Cabernet Franc in character, with clear terroir definition.

The Syrah is a blend of 30% Greyton fruit, and the rest from a shale and sandstone vineyard in Elgin. These cool vineyards produce a Syrah that’s all about pepper and rose petal: a joy to behold.

Howard John is in honour of Franco’s dad, and is a red blend that comes, from 2019, entirely from the Swartland. Lovely fruit. So much delicate energy, lovely mouthfeel. Plenty of perfume, then grip and a long and pure finish. Very detailed and very long.

Breton is the old Loire name for Cabernet Franc, which are some of Lukas’ favourite wines. This comes from the farm on the Polkedraai where Lukas lives, and is, in his words, “a glass of wine you want to smell the tension on”. This is a baby, but has impressive potential. Lots of graphite and wild berries, and blueberries in particular. There’s lovely energy here: it’s very Loire-like. It will require a few years in bottle: with that, it will be a truly glorious glass of red wine.

Stars in the Dark Syrah comes from Elim, near Cape Agulhas, in the far south of the Cape. In 2019 it comes from two separate vineyards. The first, planted on Koffieklip soils, brings a floral, fragrant element, while the second, on schist, brings much more savouriness and a restrained fruit profile. The interplay between the two makes a refined, impressive Syrah, that is sure to age beautifully.

This is a real contender for South Africa’s finest Grenache. She calls Grenache “South Africa’s Pinot Noir”, and is always looking to make as elegant and precise an example as possible: this comes in at just 13.5% abv, yet is perfectly ripe. It comes mainly froma farm on the Paardeberg, next to Eben Sadie’s farm, with a drop of Voor Paardeberg and Bot Rivier fruit in 2018, from young vines and carefully selected clones.

This Tinta Barocca, meanwhile, is a real labour of love. She loves the grape variety, and this comes from three different, old vine sources: one in Bot Rivier, one in Stellenbosch, and then a parcel on the same farm on the Paardeberg as the other two wines. This is a bottling that benefits from a couple of years in bottle: with that it develops wonderful smoky notes, and hints of blood orange.

From a plot in Franchhoek planted in 1932, there are just 5,000 bottles of the Franschhoek Old Vines Lötter Cinsault.

The Granite Syrah comes from the Paardeberg, from 24 year old vines, and is incredibly elegant and floral in style, with real focus.

There are just 1,800 bottles of the Wellington Old Vines Basson Cinsault, from a plot planted in 1900.

With softer, slower extraction than previous vintages, Callie Louw has taken what was already a spectacular wine and lifted it to an even higher level. There’s violets and pomegranate on the nose, with an intense and silky palate, and a wonderfully intense and concentrated palate of ripe cherries and a hint of blood orange. The finish is long and savoury, and so complex. Astonishingly good Syrah.

The Rall Red is a blend of 70% Syrah 12% Grenache 10% Carignan and 8% Cinsault, with all the fruit coming from the Swartland. A lovely nose, very southern French in style: this is like a cool and sophisticated Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Notes of lavender and baked earth, and also plenty of mulberry and other wild berry fruit. Very well defined, and very long indeed.

Named after Donovan’s young daughter, it comes from schist soils, from a farm just outside Riebeek Kasteel, that Donovan and his team farm themselves. Tiny yields and incredibly hard work account for the higher price point. Incredibly peppery on the palate, there’s notes of violets and core of intense, ripe, yet not overbearing fruit. The texture is stunning here, and the finish seems to last an age. This is really very impressive.

The Main Road and Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon comes from two vineyards, planted 21 years ago. Just 5km from the ocean, and at 1,200 feet elevation, this is one of the coolest spots in the Cape’s winelands. And that results in an elegant, pure, unique style of South African Cabernet. Here, Craig’s been known to harvest grapes as late as May: that’s the equivalent of November in the Northern Hemisphere. And with baboons and birds seeking out the final grapes on vines in the valley, the yields are pitifully small. But the wine is remarkable: already a Cape cult classic. Lovely energy here, saline and very pure, with grippy tannins and a very long finish.

The Reserve Red is 100% Syrah, from a south-east facing block on the farm. It’s a peppery, nervy Syrah, with tons of finesse.

Pofadder is Eben’s ode to the Cinsault grape, from a 1973-planted vineyard on iron-rich slate soils on the Kasteelberg, in the heart of the Swartland. This is a complex, ageworthy wine: as good as Cinsault gets.

The 2007 Syrah from Chris Williams comes from the Helderberg in Stellenbosch, and the wine is an intensely coloured, pure, expressive Syrah from a real master winemaker. Notes of white pepper and dark chocolate, and an intense core of dark fruit, are all supported by lively acidity and a pure, savoury finish. Brilliant.

From this year we’re offering the Copper Pot Pinot Noir, which comes from five different sources in the Overberg region. In common with John's other wines, it’s a wine that’s all about subtlety and finesse, that’s a joy to drink.

The Wanderers Heart is a blend of 66% Grenache from the Paardeberg in the Swartland, 23% Mourvedre from Bot Rivier, and 11% Syrah from shale in the same location. With 60% whole bunches, it's a juicy, fresh, and fragrant red. While John's whites typically get the plaudits, this is getting better and better. Don't overlook it.