2022 The Steading Blanc, Torbreck, Barossa Valley

Like the Cuvée Juvenile Blanc, this 2022 The Steading Blanc is Roussanne-led (50%), followed by Marsanne (43%) and Viognier (7%). While the Roussanne went straight to tank (i.e., no oak), the Marsanne and Viognier were fermented and matured in seasoned French oak. That is undoubtedly what brings the softness to the middle palate, while the Roussanne contributes white flowers and chalk to the perimeters. There is also green apple (skin), loquat, lychee, white plum and nashi pear. This is lovely, complex, plush and laden with white pepper through the finish. The phenolics have a firmness to them—very attractive in a white wine.

If Juveniles Blanc is a young ‘Luke’, this wine is a ‘Jedi Master’. Focussing on Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier, this is a spellbinding white wine and the finest white to date from this winery. With incredible poise and a downright sexy deportment, The Steading Blanc shows mind-blowing refinement and definition. At a seventh of the price of Châteauneuf-du-Pape Beaucastel Blanc and a full 1% lower in alcohol, this wine redefines what is possible from the timeless RMV blend. Yet, with remorseless climate creep impacting the Rhône more than anywhere I can think of, The Steading Blanc reminds me of great Southern Rhône whites from a bygone era but with more flair, professionalism, fruit clarity and drinkability.