2019 Masseto, Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Bolgheri, Tuscany

Intense aromas of blackberries and black olives, together with hints of rosemary bush and lavender. Perfumed and nuanced. Full-bodied, yet so tight and integrated, with weightless tannins that frame the wine in a precise and curated fashion. Very structured and built for aging. It’s rather shy now, but will reward those who are patient. A kind of stealth in its nature. A more thought-provoking edition of Masseto. Needs time to show its true self. Try after 2027.

Reminding me of a great Pomerol in a way, the 2019 Masseto is as always 100% Merlot and is a pure, seamless, just incredibly sexy expression of this terroir, showing the warmer style of the vintage. Giving up loads of redcurrants, sweet tobacco, savory herbs, dusty earth, and chalky mineral notes, as well as some subtle chocolaty oak, it has a wonderful purity and precision in its aromatics and already shows considerable complexity. These all carry over to the palate, where the wine is full-bodied, has a silky, layered mouthfeel, building, chalky tannins, and a great finish. This ripe, powerful Masseto clocks in at over %15 alcohol, yet the balance is spot on and it remains light on its feet and graceful, with no sensation of weight or heaviness. It unquestionably deserves 7-8 years of bottle age and, I suspect, will have 30 years of longevity, probably longer.

This bottle opens a new chapter for one of Italy's most celebrated and collected wines. The first vintage made entirely in its dedicated state-of-the-art winery (and the first vintage with a 10% dabble of Cabernet Franc added to what has historically aways been a pure expression of Merlot), the Masseto 2019 Masseto has two main themes at heart: concentration and elegance. And managing those two seemingly contrasting elements requires a little bit of magic. That's the Masseto magic we look for. The 2019 vintage delivers it in spades with lovely concentrated fruit, blackberry, integrated spice, tobacco, crushed slate, pencil shaving and lots of texture and fiber to push a lasting mouthfeel. The wine's richness translates into density and power to the palate, meanwhile the bouquet reveals fluidity and new sides as the wine opens in the glass. The finish is tapered and focused.

The 2019 Masseto is fabulous. Silky, gracious and super-refined, the 2019 is a total knock-out. So often Masseto is a powerhouse at this stage, but the 2019 is so elegant, so precise. This is the first year that includes Cabernet Franc, 10% in this case. I can’t say I am at all surprised given how much Franc has added to Massetino. Red berry fruit, mocha, cinnamon and blood orange lend freshness throughout. The 2019 has just been bottle, so it's early. But there certainly appears to be a lot to look forward to. (Originally Published in March 2022)