2018 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux, Margaux

The 2018 Pavillon Rouge accounts for 30% of the crop this year. It is composed of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, with 14.5% alcohol. Deep garnet-purple in color, it sings of crushed black and red currants, warm black berries and plum pudding with touches of fungi, cedar chest, truffles and smoked meats plus a fragrant undercurrent of fallen leaves and potpourri. The palate is medium to full-bodied with a solid backbone of fine-grained tannins and loads of freshness supporting the vibrant red and black fruits, finishing long.

Richly coloured, almost inky, this is seductive and full of flavour with raspberry and brambled fruits that have texture and density. For me, this is far more similar to the 2009 than the 2010. It's an enjoyable Pavillon, all parts present and correct and well assembled, even if it's a little less supple and fragrant than in some years. A subtle closing in on the finish gives you a clue to how tannic this really is (82IPT, high for this estate). 3% Cabernet Franc makes up the blend, with 13% press wine. 60% new oak ageing.

Fantastic depth of ripe fruit with currant and dark-berry aromas. Hints of citrus and dry earth. Full body and round, velvety tannins that are melted into the wine. Very intense and fruity.

The 2018 Pavillon Rouge is absolutely gorgeous. Pliant, rich and enveloping, Pavillon Rouge is unusually deep in this vintage. Dark red cherry, plum, spice, tobacco, licorice and rose petal are all given an extra kick of textural resonance in the 2018. Dehydration at the end of the growing season concentrated the fruit, a phenomenon that was mostly felt in younger vines and parcels on gravel soils rather than clay. Even with all of its obvious richness, the 2018 has striking aromatic intensity and brilliance to round things out. Pavillon Rouge accounts for 30% of the harvest and is a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc.