Burgundy 2009 Vintage Overview
Along with the rest of France, Burgundy had a wonderful 2009. These are wines that should not be missed.
2009 is an easy vintage, a gift from nature...
In Burgundian terms and certainly when compared to the previous two vintages 2009 was an easy vintage in the
vineyards. There were some isolated hail showers (parts of Chambolle were badly hit) but overall the weather conditions were better than favourable, producing a large, healthy crop of ripe grapes. Dry, warm weather in August continued through most of September, and it is this which is key to understanding the 2009s as it allowed the growers huge flexibility in harvest dates and ultimately vinification. The wines express both character of appellation and accentuate the style of the domaine/winemaker with even more clarity than usual.
Gérard Boudot of Domaine Etienne Sauzet remembered fondly a stress free growing season during which he was for
once able to relax and ponder important decisions, not the case in 2010 where quality looks good but yields are much reduced. He wasn’t the only person to suggest 2009 was the latest in a series of great vintages ending in 9. This is my favourite buying trip of the year. There is a new breed of dynamic vignerons and winemakers who marry tradition and innovation. Tasting and communicating both with neighbours and people around the world with a new found enthusiasm driven by quality rather than quantity.
Open, broad whites...
This is a richer vintage than 2007 and 2008, with better balance than 2006. All the wines have real matière (body and
substance) - the best were picked towards the beginning of the harvest and have optimum acidity and better balance. One of the beauties of 2009 is that the majority of the wines (both colours) will be instantly approachable - many will remain open but will also keep extremely well.
Jean-Marc Boillot is lucky enough to have significant vineyard holdings across a range of Puligny-Montrachet vineyards.
He harvested relatively early and has reaped the rewards with terrific wines of tension and breadth, tasting at Hubert Lamy in St Aubin is always a highlight and the 2009s demonstrate further the heights achievable in this village. Puligny lovers on a budget should look no further.
Seductive and sensual reds with (hidden) depths...
The whites are good to excellent but it was the reds that were the stars of the show. There really is nothing like the fragrance of ripe Pinot Noir from this part of the world, these are sexy wines, vins de plaisirs in the truest sense. Michel Lafarge compared the vintage to 1964, very open wines which never really closed down, the best still seducing today. Etienne Grivot described his 2009s as extroverts - wines which have relatively low acidity but real definition and energy, many almost made themselves, extraction needed to be gentle.
We tasted huge diversity, from the later-picked, exotic and concentrated to aromatic and elegant wines from cooler sites
or fruit which hadn’t been destemmed. Etienne de Montille has produced a range of wines which display this diversity
through his vision, skill and great vineyards! Nicolas Potel’s new négociant venture (Maison Roche de Bellene) continues to go from strength to strength, he has access to some superb fruit and is a hugely talented winemaker.
I have no doubt we will expand and deepen the range of wines we buy at the lower end of the price scale and that, once
customers taste some of the ‘lesser’ wines (at our tasting on 13th January 2011), we will find an enthusiastic market for them. We also hope to expand further up the scale as well but, despite this being a bountiful harvest, demand will be higher than ever. Having said that we are content with our existing allocations and I believe that this year there really is something for everyone.
Nick Dagley, Burgundy Buyer
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