Qualities of the Vintage
Burgundy 2008
In November 2009, the Lay &Wheeler team visited many Domaines in Burgundy to taste the wines and assess the vintage. This team included Nick Dagley, Head of Buying and Simon Larkin MW, Head of Fine Wine Trading, who have provided their opinions on the vintage and the wines that were most successful below.
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Simon’s view on the whites
I was greatly impressed with the wines we tasted in the 2008 vintage. For me the obvious similarity between the whites of 2008 and 2007 is clear to see. There is a more evident richness and substance to the 2008s, but this is offset by the same lively-natured acidity that had us enthusing about the 2007s.The characteristics of the individual vineyards and terroirs are also clear to read in this vintage.A cooler summer has delivered pristine fruit quality in the Chardonnay, but allied to ample richness. The Meursaults of Darviot-Perrin also deserve particular comment as I was so impressed by their Perrières, and cannot recall having tasted such an impressive Meursault at this cellar.
Simon’s view on the reds
We needed to be selective in what we proposed for this offer, as there was some variation, largely brought about by harvest date. However, the best have the purity of fruit we associated with 2007 and perhaps 2001, allied to some of the softness and approachability of a vintage such as 2000.They are wines that will prove immensely appealing in their youth and yet will reward mid-term cellarage. They are pure, refined, vibrant styles with good substance, plumper than 2007 with perhaps more backbone than 2000.
I was particularly impressed with the wines of Etienne Grivot, which continue to show in a more accessible manner, without having lost any of their terroir-derived characters. Manou Humbert’s vibrant and impeccable Gevreys have also excelled in this vintage. Successes are not just confined to the Côte de Nuits: around Beaune, the fragrant, vibrant, pure Pinot qualities are beautifully expressed; there was no hardship in tasting the attractive wines of Chandon de Briailles.
Nick’s view on the whites
In most cases, the whites will drink relatively early. There was a combination of purity and charm about the wines, with floral notes, hallmark grapefruit acidity and the plumpness and balance only found in top Chardonnay. Elsewhere, the domaines of Philippe Colin and Jean-Marc Pillot in Chassagne both displayed the lightness of touch required to make wonderful wines. We tasted excellent wines from Bourgogne Blanc level up; all those included are compact and stylish with no hard edges.
Nick’s view on the reds
This appears to be a vintage in which it is difficult to generalise. If forced, I would say that the further North one travelled the better the quality, with Morey-St-Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin and Fixin producing outstanding results. For me the magic of good Pinot Noir is in its fragrance; the best offered truly complex and enticing aromas and a beautiful colour (the product of a late and often drawn out malolactic fermentation).These are lovely wines, which seem to have more presence than 2007.
More than one grower commented on the length of time their scent stayed in the glass, Louis Boillot predicting his 2008s will be finer than the already hugely hyped 2009s! I was seriously impressed by many of the wines we tasted, they possess a crushed almost crystalline fruit character, with ripe, fine tannins, suggesting they will be attractive early, but also possess excellent ageing potential.